Undercover's Eight Piece AW26 Drop Comes in 17 Colorways

Eight pieces in 17 colorways make up Undercover's AW26 men's release on Saturday, October 24, sold through undercoverism.com and Undercover's own stores. The wool knit cardigan with embroidered patches is one of the eight, and the run lands four months before the label starts its move into new ownership.

Undercover grouped the release into three families: two knits, three pieces of outerwear and three sweatshirts. The count matters because the sweatshirts carry nearly half the colors, and because seven of the eight pieces come in Black.

Two Knits, Four Colorways, No Yarn Weight Given

Undercover's wool knitwear is two pieces: a cardigan in Gray Blue and Black, and a pullover in Top Gray and Black. The cardigan carries embroidered patches and welt pockets, with patch details placed to read as elbow patches.

The pullover is the louder of the two. Its embroidery is collaged across the front and back panels, so the wearer is covered on both sides. Undercover has not published a yarn weight, gauge or fiber blend beyond "wool" for either piece. Ask a store associate first, because a wool cardigan with elbow patches and a welt pocket only earns its place in a rotation if the knit holds its shape at the elbow.

Five Colorways of Outerwear Built to Look Taken Apart

The outerwear is three jackets in five colorways, and two of the three are styled as if they were dismantled and sewn back together. The down blouson has randomly placed stitching and sheepskin leather sleeve panels, and it comes in Black only.

The padded MA1 jacket pairs glossy nylon twill with knit ribbing and comes in Khaki and Black. Undercover describes it as a jacket taken apart and reassembled. The third jacket is a padded coach jacket with bold graphic prints on the front and back, in Navy Blue and Black. Three jackets, five colors, and the blouson is the only piece in the whole release offered in a single color.

Eight Colorways Make the Sweatshirts the Deepest Bench

Three cotton fleece and brushed fleece sweatshirts account for eight of the 17 colorways, or 47 percent of the color range on 38 percent of the pieces. Undercover spread its choices here.

The first is a cotton fleece sweatshirt with zippers on both the front and back, cut to look like a garment taken apart and sewn back together, in Top Gray and Black. The second is a cotton fleece pullover built to look like two sweatshirts docked together, with a graphic print on the front, in Olive Green, Purple and Charcoal. The third is a brushed fleece pullover with an inside out design, graphic prints on the front and sleeves and a zippered front pocket, in Beige, Navy Gray and Black.

Four of the eight pieces, the MA1, the zip sweatshirt, the docked pullover and the inside out pullover, are designed around the idea of a garment being rebuilt. Half the release works one construction idea.

Human Made's Board Signed the Letter on June 15

Human Made's board decided on Monday, June 15, to sign a non binding letter of intent to acquire all shares of Undercover Co. Ltd., as reported by Complex from the announcement Jun Takahashi shared. The plan called for a share purchase agreement in September 2026 and a transfer of ownership in February 2027, with Undercover consolidated as a subsidiary in the first quarter of Human Made's fiscal year ending January 2028.

The board's stated reasoning was that "welcoming Undercover into its group and leveraging the company's management capabilities to transform its business model is expected to enhance both the brand value of Undercover and the corporate value of the entire group." The price was to be set after an independent valuation, and the terms were not disclosed in the announcement.

October 24 therefore falls between the scheduled September signing and the February 2027 transfer. Nigo's company has been busy on its own side: Human Made opened its first flagship in Harajuku on September 26, and its Season 32 lineup was also eight items, built from cotton duck, corduroy and flannel.

Dover Street Market Has Taken Undercover Twice Since July

Undercover has been loosening its distribution in small steps. Its men's pre fall pieces reached Dover Street Market New York on July 30, and the George Cox Cindy Sherman Derby went on sale on September 5 in three colorways. In September, select FW26 pieces reached Dover Street Market Los Angeles, checking out through the DSMNY online shop.

The October 24 release names only undercoverism.com and Undercover stores as sales points. None of the eight listings mentions the Cindy Sherman prints that anchored the January Paris show, 100% KHAOTIQUE NOIR, whose key pieces were silk padded coats, flight jackets and layered tank tops. These are the plain half of the season: wool, fleece, nylon twill and sheepskin, sold direct.

Seven of the eight pieces carry Black. The one that does not is the docked pullover, offered in Olive Green, Purple and Charcoal.