Stone Island Corrodes Bull Denim for Dover Street Market

Stone Island's Dover Street Market denim comes in black, a corroded beige and red, and those aren't three colourways. They're one garment stopped at three points in a single dye process. The capsule was made specially for Dover Street Market, and it takes the Reverse Colour Process that Stone Island first ran on cotton satin and linen in Spring Summer 1998 and tries it on bull denim. A hooded jacket and a five pocket jean each come in all three states, six styles in total.

You can buy the middle of the process.

It went on sale on November 12, 2026, on the shop floor at Dover Street Market London and Dover Street Market Ginza in Tokyo, and worldwide through the DSM E Shop.

Black, Then Beige, Then Red

The Reverse Colour Process corrodes a finished garment first and overdyes it second. On these pieces the order runs garment dyed black, then colour corroded beige, then overdyed red, according to Dover Street Market Ginza's listing for the capsule.

So the black jacket is where every piece starts. The beige one is that black after the corrosion step. The red one is the beige, dyed over. Mastered, the Tokyo menswear site, reports that the red needed a two step dye recipe developed in house, so the colour would take on both the base of the cloth and its surface.

The jackets get a rubberised finish that makes them wind and water resistant. Every piece carries a Stone Island | Dover Street Market print, a jacquard label made for the store and a blue version of the compass badge.

Fashionsnap lists the jackets at 401,500 yen and the jeans at 157,300 yen. That's a lot for denim. It's less strange once you see that each one has been dyed, attacked and, in the red, dyed again after it was sewn.

Bull denim isn't new to the brand. The Denim Research FW26 jackets that reached Dover Street Market New York on October 1 already included a finish called Corroded Reflective.

Cotton Satin and Linen Came First, in 1998

Stone Island's archive lists the original as 28154F50, a Raso Gommato Reverse Colour Process piece from Spring Summer 1998. Raso Gommato is the brand's rubberised cotton satin, a military derived cloth backed with polyurethane.

On satin the method was a fade followed by an overdye on the finished garment. It left shaded prints and patches where the dye didn't take. One listing for a 1998 jacket points out that the collar, placket, pocket flaps, cuffs and hem look less faded than the body, because the cloth is doubled there.

That's the charm of it. The garment's own construction decides where the colour survives.

Stone Island calls the Dover Street Market version "a new interpretation in bull denim."

Both Earlier Dover Street Market Capsules Were Black

Stone Island's first Dover Street Market capsule, in October 2023, was 20 pieces in all black. It launched in London on October 12 and in Ginza on October 14, timed to Frieze London. It revisited the brand's Ghost Pieces idea, with parkas and car coats among the styles.

The second arrived on November 29, 2024, for the store's 20th anniversary. It remade three outerwear styles Paul Harvey designed for the brand in the early 2000s, again in total black.

Denim came next. In October 2025 the relaunched Denim Research line got an installation in the Elephant Space at Ginza and a pop up in London.

Two black capsules made sense for a store that Comme des Garçons built. The third is the more Stone Island idea, because colour is where this brand does its thinking. Its NO SEASONS project this autumn cut one pattern in six fabrics and dyed them all piombo. The Dover Street Market capsule flips it into one cloth at three moments.

Francis Boissier Shot It for Arena Homme+

Francis Boissier photographed the capsule for Arena Homme+, with styling by David Bradshaw. Dover Street Market Ginza's listing says the pictures run in the magazine's latest issue.

The 1998 Raso Gommato jackets still change hands among collectors for the uneven fade on their doubled collars and cuffs. The denim lets you choose which point in that fade you want to own, the black it starts as, the beige it's corroded to, or the red it ends up.