ACNE STUDIOS SS27 MENSWEAR REMIXES THE OFFICE

Jonny Johansson set the SS27 brief around an office. Not the corner office, not the executive floor; the regular office, full of people with their own dress logic: the one who wears the same blazer every day, the one who borrowed an aesthetic from a decade he was too young for, the one whose outfit looks assembled from three different wardrobes that somehow cohere. The collection, shot by Blommers Schumm with styling by Robbie Spencer, is built around that coalescence. The caption from the house named it a "master remix." That framing is precise. SS27 is not about office wear as a trend category; it is about the office as a social space where individual uniform decisions layer into something collective. Three posts, nearly 30,000 combined Instagram likes in the first 48 hours, and a set built around artwork by Steven Shearer. ## Steven Shearer Made the Room Before Anyone Dressed It Steven Shearer is a Canadian artist whose work collages vernacular images from teen magazines, punk photography, and male portraiture into large-scale canvases and drawings. His visual territory is the formation of identity through subcultural dress and pose. That is the exact territory of the Acne Studios SS27 brief. The artwork deployed as set design here is not decorative wallpaper; it is conceptual scaffolding. Shearer's figures, frozen in postures drawn from album covers and high school yearbooks, stand behind the models in Blommers Schumm's frames. The casting, handled by DM Casting, follows accordingly. These are not conventional runway types or campaign faces. They are figures who suggest specific roles, specific daily decisions about what to wear and what that choice communicates to the room. ## Trompe l'Oeil at the Seam Level The collection's primary formal technique is trompe l'oeil. Not as a surface application: at the seam level, in the way garments suggest one silhouette while structured as another, in the way color blocks operate as architectural interruptions rather than decoration. Unexpected color is the house's own framing, and it is accurate. Acne Studios SS26, which featured [Robyn as model and runway composer photographed by Nadia Lee Cohen](/quick/acne-studios-ss26-robyn-nadia-lee-cohen-2026-m8r4n1q7), was built around gabardine and spray-painted leather; SS27 moves the embellishment to unexpected color and trompe l'oeil construction. Johansson's collections have consistently returned to one formal problem: how do you make clothes that look like they belong to a real person rather than a concept? SS27 solves this by making the concept the real person; the office character is the design brief and the silhouette emerges from that character, not the other way around. ## Blommers Schumm Shot an Office, Not a Showroom Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm have a specific track record in fashion editorial: they do not aestheticize the studio. Their work tends toward the specific and the purposefully lit rather than the atmospheric. That is the right lens for this collection. A showroom photograph would make the trompe l'oeil look clever. Blommers Schumm make it look functional. Robbie Spencer's styling choices are consistent with the brief. The pieces do not read as editorial assemblage; they read as wardrobe decisions made by people with a point of view. Set design by Jeanne Briand placed these characters in spatial relation to each other rather than isolating them against neutral backgrounds. The [Wales Bonner Sun Poem SS27 collection](/quick/wales-bonner-sun-poem-ss27-kgositsile-2026-k9p4m7wx), also from this week, takes a similar approach to archival framing; both houses are treating SS27 as an occasion to build a world, not present products. ## Nearly 30,000 Likes in 48 Hours Three posts: 8,379 likes, 15,390 likes, 5,417 likes. That is the first 48 hours on the lookbook. The second post, describing codes reworked through trompe l'oeil, embellishment, and unexpected color, generated 15,390 likes alone. The audience is recognizing something in the brief. Not the clothes exactly; the premise. The idea that the office is a remix, that personal uniforms under one roof produce something more coherent and stranger than any single wardrobe decision, is landing. Acne Studios has been making menswear long enough to know where the tension is. The formal uniform as a site of self expression is not a new observation; workwear as an aesthetic category has been in fashion conversation for a decade. What SS27 does is approach it at the character level rather than the garment level. The result is a collection that looks like it was styled by the people wearing it, which is the hardest thing to pull off in a lookbook. Blommers Schumm and Robbie Spencer pulled it off. Three posts, 29,000 likes, and a Shearer painting behind the whole thing say so.