VALENTINO GARAVANI DIES AT 93 AS ROME MOURNS ITS RED CARPET KING

## THE EMPEROR'S FINAL BOW: VALENTINO GARAVANI DIES AT 93 AS ROME MOURNS ITS RED CARPET KING The white roses flanked his portrait at Piazza Mignanelli. The crystal vases caught Rome's winter light exactly as Valentino would have staged it. The man who made maximalism a religion died January 19 at his Roman residence, surrounded by loved ones, ending fashion's longest reign of uncompromising glamour. Valentino Garavani built more than a brand. He created a color, a philosophy, a way of seeing women. From Jackie Kennedy's mourning wardrobe to Julia Roberts' Oscar triumph, his dresses became the punctuation marks of history's most photographed moments. At 93, the man universally known by one name closed a chapter that began in 1960 with a small atelier on Via Condotti. The construction was always immaculate. Hand sewn silk organza, butter soft leather trim, embroidery that took months to complete. Valentino understood materials like a Renaissance master understood marble. His signature red, inspired by a production of Carmen, became fashion's most recognizable shade. The ivory wedding dress he created for Jackie Kennedy's 1968 marriage to Aristotle Onassis launched the bridal mini trend. His ruffles, bows, and polka dots predicted today's coquette obsession by five decades. Every detail earned its place through beauty, not concept. Hollywood swore by him because he never failed. Cate Blanchett's butter yellow Oscar gown in 2004, Elizabeth Taylor's countless red carpet moments, Princess Diana's state dinner appearances. The jet set lifestyle wasn't performance art. Valentino lived among his clients in 17th century chateaus, 152 foot yachts, and Fifth Avenue apartments filled with Picassos. His pugs traveled first class. His parties drew Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna. This wasn't fashion tourism. This was how he actually lived. Rome held its lying in state Wednesday and Thursday. The funeral follows January 23 at Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri. But the business continues. Alessandro Michele, now the house's creative director, announced he feels Valentino's gaze as he works. The March 12 collection will show in Rome, not Paris. The return to the founder's city signals respect, not retreat. Kering owns 30% with plans for full control by 2028. Qatar's Mayhoola holds the rest. The machine Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti built for $300 million in 1998 now generates over $1 billion annually. **Skip the retrospectives. Study the next Michele collection. Valentino's true memorial won't be museum exhibitions. It'll be whether the house can maintain his standard: every piece must make women more beautiful. No exceptions.**